The Fall/Winter 2020 menswear season confirmed two things: the return of suiting and the end of streetwear. In an interview with Dazed, Virgil Abloh initially predicted a major shift in aesthetic with his comment that streetwear is “gonna die.” With each structured suit and romantic shirt that came down the runway, the new era of menswear became ever more apparent.
The functional outerwear of spring 2020 is hanging around for fall, replacing cargo pants and pocket-heavy pieces with quilted nylon vests and tailored pants for the urban dweller. Fendi and Nicholas Daley represented the essence of the trend best: a little form, a little function, and a lot of fashion.
Thank Dior for the return of romantic-inspired fabrics and silhouettes at men’s fashion week this season. From the feminine ruffles at Ami and Louis Vuitton to the playful feathers at Loewe, a romantic shirt is your ultimate investment piece next season. At Ann Demeulemeester, black lace took on a dark and romantic feel, while at Dior, crystal-and-sequin-beaded jackets were paired with satin shirts and velvet opera-glove for an ultimate display of grandeur.
Urban Utility
A Cold Wall | Fendi | Dolce & Gabbana | Nicholas Daley
Designers paired quilted nylon, tactile hardware, and a plethora of pockets with structured silhouettes and luxe fabrics to give the utility trend a fresh urban feel. Padding and quilting transcend outdoor categories as designers rework the technique for urban dwellers. Sports-infused trims, details, and accessories in concrete and black tones reinforce the cross-over appeal.
Ungendered Romance
Ami | Ann Demeulemeester | Loewe | Louis Vuitton
Feminine-inspired fabrics and silhouettes are poised to take over menswear next fall. Dramatic tops, sheer lace, and slim-fit pants set a whimsical tone, but the underlying originality is in the pastel-on-black styling. An unveiling of silk shirts came imbued with ruching, ruffles, and feathers. Among the best, avant-garde shirting with pastel feathers were found at Loewe, while in Paris, romantic ruffles at Ami were paired with a sensible turtleneck.
Underground Punk
Marni | Gucci | Dries Van Noten | Alexander McQueen
The punk aesthetic is making a comeback, and this season designers are reviving the grunge look with subtle preppy influences. Dries Van Noten showed tartan-heavy looks, while Alexander McQueen took a more minimal approach. Many of the men’s collections embraced oversized cardigan moments that offset the rise of slimmed-down silhouettes. Two-toned colorways, distressed hemlines, and oversized silhouettes add newness.
Recoded Tailoring
Louis Vuitton | Balmain | Fendi | Givenchy
Seemingly every major designer sent some variation of a suit down the runway this season. At Fendi and N Hoolywood, suits were pieced together with contrasting fabrics, while those at Givenchy and Paul Smith featured exposed seams.
Hygge Heritage
Louis Vuitton | Fendi | Dolce & Gabbana | Givenchy
Oversized, relaxed, and, most importantly, comfortable, the FW20 runway was a display of chunky cable knit sweaters, thermal co-ords, and shearling overcoats in nature-inspired shades of brown, camel, and ivory. Outerwear – especially shearling coats and knit sweaters – receives an eye-catching, logo-covered update as designers embrace comfort and heritage.
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